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Turkish
cuisine inherited its Ottoman heritage which could be described as a
fusion and refinement of Central Asian, Middle Eastern and Balkan
cuisines. Turkish cuisine also influenced these cuisines and other
neighbouring cuisines, as well as western European cuisines. Ottomans
fused various culinary traditions of their realm with influences from
Middle Eastern cuisines, along with traditional Turkic elements from
Central Asia such as yogurt.
Visitors
who are not familiar with Turkish cuisine have a delightful surprise
in store for them: stemming partly from the spectacular variety of
ingredients and partly from the influence of the numerous
civilizations which have inhabited Anatolia throughout history,
Turkish cuisine is simply delicious.
Regional
Specialities
As
you visit different areas of Turkey, there are local specialities
which must be eaten in their home region to be fully appreciated.
Thus Kanlica in Istanbul is famous for its yoghurt, Bursa for its
Iskendar Kebab, Gaziantep for its pistachio nuts, the Black Sea for
hamsi (fried anchovies) and corn bread and the Syrian borderlands
(Urfa and Adana) for spicy shish kebabs.
Starters
A
meal out will usually start with a selection of mezes -- appetizers
-- from an enormous and very colourful platter. Cold mezes include
stuffed mussels (midye dolma), humus, pureed aubergine salad
(patlican salatasi), stuffed vine leaves (yaprak dolma) and
Circassian chicken (cevizli tavuk). Among the selection of hot mezes
are usually borek, (thin layers of flaky pastry stuffed with cheese,
meat or spinach), sautéed lamb's liver with onions and kalamari.
Salad
lovers will find a variety of unusual, spicy herbs appearing along
with the standard tomato and cucumber, especially in the south. Roka
is a bitter herb which translates as rocket in English, and you may
also find spiky dereotu (bitter cress), nane (fresh mint) or even
kuzu kulla (sorrel). A spinachy-textured vegetable frequently served
in garlic-yogurt is called semizotu, known to us as purslane.
Main
courses
Main
courses are generally fish or meat kebabs, though this word is used
in a much wider sense than generally understood in the West. The
spices and herbs used to delicately flavour the meat varies from
region to region. Guvec dishes are delicious casseroles cooked in
earthenware pots. Et sote, a kind of goulash, is very good, as is
coban kavurma. The eating of fish has an elevated if not cult status
in Turkey. It is best eaten in an open-air restaurant by the sea,
preferably Anadolu Kavagi, Rumeli Kavagi or Kumkapi, always
accompanied by raki, and enjoyed in the company of good friends. The
choice depends on the catch of the day, and may include swordfish
(kilic), bluefish (lufer), turbot (kalkan) or lobster (istakoz).
The
staple of lunch time cafeterias is ev yemek, which translates
literally as home food, signifying tasty vegetable and meat-based
stews. An interesting aspect of Turkish drinking culture is the
all-night iskembe parlor, which serves tripe soup. It is considered
medicinal after a night on the town, with crushed garlic from a bowl,
red pepper, oregano and vinegar added to taste.
Desserts
In
restaurants, dessert is often a beautifully presented selection of
seasonal fruits. In spring this may be green almonds and plums,
generally an acquired taste for foreigners. There are strawberries in
May, cherries in June, melons in July and August and apples, pears
and pomegranates in autumn. Winter is the time for Turkish-grown
citrus fruits and bananas.
For
a wider selection of sweets try the pastane, or pudding shop, where
you'll find all the traditional Turkish sweets such as lokum, or
Turkish delight, baklava, kadayif, halva and asure (traditionally
held to contain the forty different ingredients left in the Ark's
kitchen when Noah sighted Ararat). Sutlac, or rice pudding, is also
popular, as are profiteroles, best tried at Inci Pastanesi on
Istanbul's Istiklal Caddesi.
Breakfast
Turkish
breakfasts are dominated by freshly baked bread, eaten with salty
white cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, butter, honey, jam, and
often a boiled egg. Deliciously creamy yoghurt is an optional extra.
Other breakfast alternatives include pastry shops which serve a
variety of flaky pastries with cheese or meat fillings.
Drinks
Turkey
produces some excellent dry wines, both red and white, which go well
with a variety of foods. Names to look out for include Villa Doluca,
Kavakladere Cankaya, Yakut and Dikmen. Efes and Tuborg beers are
almost always the only beers available, and both are good. A must is
the local aniseed-based drink, raki, drunk with water added and
called "lion's milk" by Turks. But heed this tried and
tested warning well: "you must drink the raki and not let it
drink you!" A meal is often followed by an espresso sized cup of
Turkish coffee, though Italian coffees are becoming increasingly popular.
For
day-time and non-alcoholic alternatives, try ayran, a yogurt, salt
and water mix. Freshly-squeezed juices are also widely available and
cheap, but best in winter when the citrus season is in full force in
the South. There is also carrot juice, banana milk and sour apple
juice. Strong black tea in tulip shaped glasses will be served any
time you are asked to sit and wait, or go visiting, but there is also
a strong tradition of herbal teas, some of which (like sage) are
unusual to the western palate but very good.
Boza
and sahlep are popular drinks in winter. The former is made from
mildly fermented millet and tastes rather like eggnog. Sahlep, on the
other hand, is served hot on ferry boats and other public places and
is made from the pulverized tubers of the wild orchid. It is very
sweet and comes sprinkled with cinnamon, and is the perfect companion
on a cold winter's day.
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