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Est. 1996

Issue 150

August 2009

Over One Hundred Years
Of Pizza

 

 

They've been turning out pizzas at the Antica Pizzeria Brandi, just off the trendy Via Chiaia, for more than a century; it was here that pizza got its modern look in 1889 when a treat was prepared for Queen Margherita and taken to the nearby royal palace. It was also the first known pizza delivery. To give the pizza a patriotic appearance, Rafaele Esposito used the colors of the new Italian flag: tomato sauce for the red; basil for the green; and for the white, a key ingredient - mozzarella di bufala. The Queen loved the pizza, and an international delicacy was born.

The restaurant was founded in 1780 by Pietro Colicchio, who had neither sons nor daughters, so he left it to Enrico Brandi, who left it to Maria Brandi, who married Rafaele Esposito, who sold it to Vincenzo Pagnani, who turned it over to his son, Eduardo Pagnani.

The Italian-American Historical Society once stated that pizza was brought back to Rome by legionnaires stationed in Palestine in the first century B.C. The soldiers had grown tired of the local, unleavened bread and spiced it up with cheese and olive oil. So goes the argument that pizza's true ancestor is the matzoh.

The world's first pizzeria was the Port'Alba, which opened in Naples in 1830. It cooked its pizzas in an oven lined with Vesuvian lava. The Port'Alba became a haunt for artists and writers, and the poet Salvatore di Giacomo wrote several poems about pizza from one of its tables.

Alexandre Dumas mentioned pizza in several travel essays, but he erred about pizza a otto giorni - instead of being baked eight days before it was eaten, the pizza was eaten right out of the oven and paid for eight days later.

Even as Rafaele Esposito was concocting a pizza fit for a queen, his countrymen were flocking to America, and they took pizza with them. In 1905, Gennaro Lombardi opened the first American pizzeria at 531/2 Spring St. in New York. But pizza was considered foreign food and could be found only in Italian neighborhoods.

When World War II sent great waves of Americans to Italy, GIs with names such as Kelly and Schwartz got their first taste of pizza. It was love at first bite, and, when they returned, pizza became a national obsession.

 

website: http://www.brandi.it/inglese/index3.html

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Mood Food is published by FSR, London, England © 2009 

Editors:

Peter J. Grove

Editorial office: PO Box 416 Surbiton, Surrey, England, KT1 9BJ
Tel: 020 8399 4831

email: GroveInt@aol.com