Back Better Than Ever   Years ago, Emdad Rahman's Babur Brasserie in London's Forest Hill always figured in the running for national awards. This was mainly down to their successful efforts to open up the wide range and diversity of Indian cuisine to a local market that one would expect to limit their demand to a more restricted, populist menu. They further enhanced their reputation for creating the 'festival' which has since become so popular with many restaurants. Time went by and other new restaurants emerged causing Babur to somewhat lose its place in the Indian restaurant heirachy. The good news is it is right back with new décor and a fantastic new Rajasthan Festival(9 February - 31 March). Two new chefs have been recruited as part of the re-launch. Head Chef Jiwan Lal comes from Oberoi's Cecile Hotel in Simla and sous chef Praveen Kumar Gupta hails from Oberoi's Rajvillas in Jaipur. We tried the festival menu specially linked to selected wines by Peter McCombie. After a glass of Champagne Grand Reserve, Devaux NV we were treated to spicy Jodhpuri lamb chopes sharpened with aniseed, cumin and vinegar ; Chicken kebabs in a classic Rajasthani marination of clove, chilli and coriander - smokey and strong in clove taste ; Tangy rabbit tikka marinated in wonderful mustard paste and ypghurt ; and perfectly cooked mushrooms in pickling spices. Main courses started with tender chicken in a tangy yoghurt, white pepper and green chilli sauce ; excellently cooked Black cod in spices and mustard oil with wonderful mustard mash ; thick cut venison escalope in yoghurt and yellow chilli served with jeera rice and lastly a fiery Lal maas with that wonderful cove-smokey flavour. Even dessert had some surprises with Gehwar, a crisply-aerated griddle cake with chikoo (very popular in India and a little like a kiwi) ice cream and Jaipuri bread pudding - top class and very reminiscent of our own Christmas pudding. Innovation is back. The décor is authentic and imported from India, although Emdad did say he hadn't been able to get the stones for the walls in his luggage ; the menu exciting and innovative and the spicing subtle and top class. And if that is not enough each member of staff knew all about the food and drink and was able to speak about them knowledgeably and with enthusiasm - fantastic! Babur Brasserie 119 Brockley Rise, Forest Hill London SE23 1 JP Tel : 020 8291 2400   top