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Est. 1996

Issue 156

February 2010

'World's best restaurant' El Bulli to shut for two years then for good

 

 

El Bulli, the Spanish restaurant repeatedly crowned the world's best, will be closed for two years from 2012, its chef Ferran Adria recently, citing fatigue and a need to perfect new recipes.

"No meals will be served in El Bulli in 2012 and 2013," said the controversial guru of avant-garde cuisine and creator of "molecular gastronomy".

"But El Bulli is not closing down. These are not two years on sabbatical. I need time to decide how 2014 is going to be. We want the year 2014 to stand out and I know that when I return it will not be the same."

However, Chef Alba has now told the New York Times that El Bulli will, in fact, permanently cease to operate as a restaurant after December 2011 and be reborn as a cutting-edge academy for the world's most talented cooks. A report in a Madrid newspaper then stated "Acclaimed Spanish chef Ferran Adria says his world-famous restaurant elBulli is struggling financially and he's looking for ways to keep it afloat" throwing doubt into the mix again.

El Bulli, on Spain's northeastern Catalan coast, last year came top of the World's 50 Best Restaurants list for the fourth year in a row following a poll of more than 800 chefs, restaurant critics and industry insiders for Britain's Restaurant Magazine.

Gourmets the world over reserved sometimes years in advance for a table in the establishment, where about 30 avant-garde dishes are available on a menu for a price of about 200 euros.

But Adria, 47, who appeared tired and nervous, said he found working 15 hours a day "difficult".

"It's impossible with the current format of El Bulli to continue to create," he said at Madrid Fusion, the annual international culinary conference focusing on the cutting-edge in haute cuisine.

Adria, who joined the kitchen staff of El Bulli in 1984, and Heston Blumenthal in England have since the late 1990s rocked the world of gastronomy by using science to "deconstruct" and rebuild food, both astonishing diners and delighting reviewers.

What is certain is that El Bulli will close at the end of 2011 for at least two years - after that who knows?

 

 

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Mood Food is published by FSR, London, England © 2010

Editor:

Peter J. Grove

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