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Est. 1996

Issue 156

February 2010

FOCUS ON PERUVIAN FOOD & DRINK

 

 

"Peru can lay claim to one of the world's dozen or so great cuisines". This was the conclusion of a well known financial magazine in 2004 and since then Peruvian cuisine has been described as 'the new Thai' and continues to fascinate chefs the world over.

Peru is home to some 80 types of the world's 104 different biological zones, which assures an amazing assortment of fresh ingredients. Potatoes and hot peppers from the Andes, fish and seafood from the Pacific Ocean, mangoes and limes from the coastal valleys, bananas and manioc from the Amazon jungle: a chef's only problem is abundance of choice.

More importantly, Peruvian cuisine has a remarkable history. Ever since the first blending between Inca and Spanish traditions, local cooks have been capable of incorporating the flavours and techniques of the many immigrants that disembarked in the country's ports, in particular African, Chinese, and Japanese. Potatoes are probably the main contribution of the Incas to the world. By the early XVI century, when Spaniards arrived, Peruvian natives had already domesticated some 1000 varieties of the tuber. Although potatoes were fundamental to their diet, Inca cuisine also comprised cereals like quinua and corn, meats like alpaca and cuy (a native guinea pig), fruits, and obviously hot peppers -their most significant gift to Peruvian cuisine.

Thanks to its pre-Inca and Inca heritage and to Spanish, Basque, African, Sino-Cantonese, Japanese, Arabic and finally Italian, French and British immigration (mainly throughout the 19th century), Peruvian cuisine combines the flavors of four continents. The great variety in Peruvian cuisine stems from three major influences: Peru's unique geography ; Peru's openness and blending of distinct ethnicities and cultures ; The incorporation of ancient cuisine into modern Peruvian cuisine

Peruvian cuisine is very regional. The cuisine of the coast can be said to have five strong influences: Japanese, the Moorish, the African, the Chinese and the local native. A centre of immigration and centres of the Spanish Viceroyalty, Lima and Trujillo have incorporated unique dishes brought from the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors and the receiving of many waves of immigrants: African, European, Chinese, and Japanese.

The cuisine of the northern coast offers a difference in style from the central and southern varieties. This is not only due to the coastal native Indian influence (less Andean), the Moorish and Spanish influence, the African and the Gypsy influence (Hindustani); but also to the warmer coastal seas, hotter climate and immense geographical latitude variety. In the valleys and plains of the Andes, the locals' diet continues to be based on corn (maíz), potatoes, and an assortment of tubers as it has been for many hundreds of years. Meat comes from indigenous animals like alpacas and guinea pigs, but also from imported livestock like sheep and swine.

Naturally, jungle cuisine is made using the products local to the area. Although many animal species are hunted for food in the biologically diverse jungle, standouts are the paiche (one of the world's largest freshwater fish), prepared in variety of dishes; many other types of fish like gamitana, sabalo, tucunare, boquichico, palometa, bagre, and many others including the piranha, that are prepared in variety of dishes such as "timbuche" (soup) or "patarashca" (grilled in vegetables); many types of turtles like the motelo (land turtle), and the charapa and taricaya (river turtles).

Thanks to Peru's three regions and ocean there are an abundance variety of fresh ingredients that satisfied not only the most sophisticated chef. Many Inca dishes have make it practically unchanged to the XXI century, and are cooked just like 500 years ago. The best examples are probably carapulca and pachamanca.

Peruvian cuisine is often made spicy by means of ají pepper, a basic ingredient. Chile peppers existed in South America as long ago as 7500 BC but some Peruvian chili peppers are not spicy but serve to give taste and color to dishes. Rice often accompanies dishes in Peruvian cuisine, and the regional sources of foods and traditions give rise to countless varieties of preparation and dishes.

The particular developments in Peruvian cuisine in recent years has been down to firstly the influence of the immigrant Chinese community and later the Japanese. Chifa (meaning "to eat food") is the Peruvian term for Chinese food (or for a Chinese restaurant). In the 150 years since its arrival in Peru, the Chinese Peruvian culture has revolutionized Peruvian cuisine, gaining international recognition from those who have had the opportunity to sample it while visiting Peru.

Chifa reflects a fusion by Chinese Peruvians of the products that the Chinese brought with them to those that they found in Peru, and later cultivated themselves. Even some creole dishes such as tacu-tacu, lomo saltado, and arroz chaufa were influenced by the Chinese.

Top Peruvian dishes are :

Papa a la Huancaina: Sliced Boiled Potatoes covered in a cheesy, slightly spicy yellow sauce (which contains Turmeric) served on top of lettuce. This dish is usually garnished with a quarter of a hard-boiled egg and sometimes with olives too.

Anticuchos: Skewered meat (brochettes) that are sold throughout the streets of Peru and of course in restaurants. We recommend that you ask what type of meat it is before ordering one, as the most general kind is called anticucho de corazón, which is marinated beef hearts grilled on a stick.

Lomo Saltado:If you are on diet, we don't recommend this dish. Peruvians take strips of steak and sauté it with soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, chillies, onions and tomatoes. It is then served over a bed of rice with a large helping of chips (french fries). It is often served with a small side of salad too. It is a hearty meal that is served in many of the cheaper restaurants.

Ceviche: There are many different variations of the dish which can be found in almost every restaurant in Peru. It is generally made with bite size chunks of raw white fish, normally sea bass. The fish is marinated in lemon / lime juice, onions and chillies. Traditionally it is served with boiled sweet potatoes or corn.

Tiradito: is similar to Ceviche though the fish is cut into strips instead of the chunks and it is made without onions giving it a lighter flavour.

Aji de Gallina: Shredded chicken is cooked with a sauce of milk, onions, chillies, garlic, walnuts and cheese. It is served over rice and is a favourite of many Peruvians and tourists alike.

Alcoholic Drinks

Pisco, a kind of brandy, is the national drink of Peru. This distilled beverage made from grapes is produced in various regions of the country. Pisco Sour is a cocktail made from pisco combined with key lime juice, the white of an egg and sugar.

Wines come from many different regions of the country, most notably from the Ica Region.

Beer as in many countries, is popular in all levels of society. Local brands include Pilsen and Cristal. A couple of regional beers are Arequipeña and Cuzqueña (Cusqueña), from Arequipa and Cuzco, respectively; though Cuzqueña is popular nationwide and is exported worldwide.

PAPAS A LA HUANCAINA / Potatoes Huancaina Style
Ingredients :
5 ají amarillo fresco / fresh yellow aji (chili)
2 garlic cloves
14 oz - 1 3/4 cup(400 g) famers chesse (ricotta, cottage or feta)
½ cup vegetable oil
2 hardboiled eggs
4 Spanish olives pitted and cut in halves
2.2 lb (1 k) yellow flesh potatoes, boiled (if not available, use white potatoes)
Lettuce - Salt - Pepper
Preparation:
Remove seeds and veins from the ajis or chilli peppers and wash well with water rubbing one against the other. Cut into pieces.
In a medium skillet, with oil, stir-fry the aji, whole garlic cloves until tender.
Put this mixture in a blender or processor and add the cheese and oil. Blend until creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Arrange sliced potatoes on a bed of lettuce, pour sauce to cover. Garnish with sliced hardboiled eggs and olives.

 

CEVICHE / Marinated Fish
Ingredients :
2.2 lb (1 k) filet of sole or any fresh, white, tender fish
3 medium onions, thinly sliced
Juice of 8 to 10 freshly squeezed key limes
5 finely chopped aji limo / Chili
Salt - Pepper
1½ tablespoons chopped cilantro
3 to 5 cloves crushed garlic
3 leaves of lettuce
3 yellow sweet potatoes
8 1-inch slices of maize corn
1 ají limo / Chili cut in thin slices for decoration
Preparation:
Boil sliced corn with a few anise seeds.
Boil sweet potatoes, peel and cut into slices 1 inch (2 cm) thick.
Wash fish with water and salt. Cut in squares 1/2 inch thick.
Slice onion thinly; add salt.
Cut aji limo in halves, seeded and deveined.
Place fish on serving dish and season with crushed garlic and salt. Add finely chopped aji limo, key lime juice, pepper and chopped cilantro. Let set for 10 minutes (taste juice to check hotness). Place onions over fish.
Decorate the platter with the slices of corn, aji limo, sweet potato and leaves of lettuce.

 

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Mood Food is published by FSR, London, England © 2010

Editor:

Peter J. Grove

Editorial office: PO Box 416 Surbiton, Surrey, England, KT1 9BJ

Tel: 020 8399 4831

email: GroveInt@aol.com