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Siam on the Thames

 

Top Thai restaurant Saran Rom in Chelsea is the fifth in Kobchok Ngoeypaiboon's Siam Food Gallery Group which started in the nineties.

Kobchok Saran Rom to his Siam Food Gallery Group with an eye to conveying his patrons from the edge of the Thames to the banks of the Chao Phya. There is teakwood panelling, royal portraits and gorgeous porcelain and lanterns.

Kobchok is the epitome of the successful "accidental restaurateur". He came to Britain in 1989, a 23-year-old student, washed dishes, waited at tables, cooked, gardened, decorated, delivered and even caught rats.

His next move was to open a restaurant. Pu's Brasserie, as it was called, remains a favourite haunt for young Thais as well as locals.

"I wanted something between a restaurant and cafe, so I called it a brasserie - with karaoke. My customers found it different from other Thai restaurants, which usually have sarong-clad waitresses. Our staff went modern with polo shirts." Pu's debut diner was in fact so popular that other Thai restaurateurs came from Chicago and Australia to see how he did it.

In 1997 he replicated his success with Thai Upon Thames in of Richmond, followed by Siam Food Gallery, which opened in 2000 in Esher, Surrey. It's an upmarket place with a traditional Thai ambience - bamboo tables and chairs, for instance - to suit a clientele of soccer and showbiz celebrities.

Siam Food Gallery soon had a sister branch in Virginia Water, Surrey, which exudes the restful calm of a Chiang Mai forest and now Saran Rom has joined the group celebrating Royal Thai cuisine.

Saran Rom is by far the most ambitious endeavour, and matching the high overheads is a significant investment in kitchen talent: executive chef Yupa Sondhisap, who spent 25 years at the Oriental in Bangkok, and sous chef Bhithak Srimaithong from Chiang Mai's Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Resort.

 

 

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