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 Poles No Longer Apart

 
The Polish food revolution has arrived, and not just in fashionable London restaurants and among the 600,000 Poles who have settled in the UK since Poland joined the European Union in 2004. The trend has reached the high street.

When Andrzej Pastuszak left Poland to seek his fortune in Britain, he could only dream of a job as head chef in a restaurant where film stars were regulars.

But thanks to a surge in the popularity of Polish cuisine, Mr Pastuszak has achieved his ambition at Wodka, where diners including the actors Ralph Fiennes and Ian Holm flock to sample his bigos - a hunter's stew (pictured left), and golabki - cabbage leaves filled with pork or veal.

Since Tesco began selling Polish food six months ago, the demand for tinned borsch, pickled vegetables and salty bread sticks has increased tenfold. Soon the range will be extended to 250 supermarkets.

Polish food shops are also growing in popularity: there are now about 30 specialist- stores in London, triple the number of two years ago. A new crop of Polish bakeries and delicatessens has recently opened across the country.

And Britain's biggest importer of Polish beer, BDD, reports that sales of Polish beers and spirits in pubs, clubs and restaurants have increased by 200 per cent in just one year.

Jan Woroniecki, the owner of Wodka and its sister restaurant, the Baltic, in south London, where regulars include the television presenter Graham Norton, thinks that Polish food is finally "emerging from behind the Iron Curtain.

For those still somewhat bewildered, here is our brief guide to Polish food and drink :

The first Polish restaurant, Daquise, was opened in Thurloe Street South Kensington in 1947 by Tadeusz Dakowski, a restaurateur in Warsaw before the war. Others are now popping up all over the place to cater for a growing Polish population and the influx of students.

Polish Cuisine

Polish food can best be described as hearty and filling, perfect for those living a rural life. Warm soups and stews form the backbone of the cuisine, with cream and dumplings often a welcome addition. Starters might include a cold, creamy beetroot and vegetable soup called chlodnik, a hot creamy sausage variety called zurek or salad. Also popular are grilled pieces of beef, sausage, chicken or game topped with a creamy sauce and potatoes. Another example is cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, meat or mushrooms, or a combination of the three.

Ewa Michalik runs one of London's most successful Polish restaurants, Patio and every Polish restaurant serves pierogi, a historic Slav creation comprising circles of dough encasing various fillings. They are cooked in boiling salted water, drained and tossed in butter, and are quite delicious.

The most popular main dish in Poland is probably bigos - this is a hearty stew made with sausage and other meats put together with cabbage, mushrooms and other vegetables. Another dish that is often on the menu is dumplings stuffed with cabbage and mushrooms or cheese and potato.

Desserts are delicious and unusual, ranging from raisin and buckwheat pudding to seed cakes and ice cream.

Polish Drink

Vodka is one of the main Polish alcoholic drinks, but for something lighter, a number of Polish beers are available in the UK including brands such as EB, Okocim and Zywiec.

 

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