READER REVIEW:

Jeera Masala
15 Marefair, Northampton NN1 1SR

By Paul Motley

Jeera Masala is situated in Marefair just a few doors down from the original Taj Mahal, which broke new ground in Northampton as it was the first and only Indian restaurant in the town when it opened in 1952.

This adventurous landmark for the town was opened by the pioneering Sordar and Shomsor Bahadur, who owned four other Indian restaurants all located outside the capital, which in itself was quite groundbreaking, as very few Indian restaurants existed outside London in those early days. Sadly, the historic Taj Mahal Northampton closed its doors approximately 15 years ago, the building still exists but is now a Mexican restaurant named Salsa.

The Jeera Masala opened about 3 years ago and has received good reports by word of mouth and on that basis we decided to give it a try. We decided there was no need to book as it was a Monday night and also just one day after New Years Day. In fact, many places had anticipated the lull and not even opened but, as luck would have it, The Jeera Masala was open, albeit we were the only customers in there and remained so all night.

The single fronted premises were simply decorated with clean lines and pastel colours but perhaps a few pictures might have made it look more interesting. We were of course promptly seated given menus and offered drinks. The menu was a standard heat graded listing with the usual suspects ranging from the traditional Kormas to Vindaloos all offered with either lamb, chicken, prawn or king prawn plus vegetable main courses and side dishes.

The four of us decided to skip starters and order lamb Pathia, a sweet and sour dish originally introduced to India by The Parsee community, who fled to India from Persia to avoid religious prosecution and settled mainly in Bombay, which was at the time located in the state of Gujarat.

Between the remaining three of us we ordered Lamb, Chicken and King Prawn Jalfrezi. Jalfrezi is not a thoroughbred Indian dish but was originally introduced in Calcutta by the Indian cooks employed by the British Memsahibs. It was a way of using up the surplus meat and vegetables left over from the English roasts and, of course, by tradition, an array of spices were added to perk up the meal. Jal means spicy Ferazi means stir-fry in the Bengali language. We also ordered a selection of side dishes to compliment the meal plus rice and chapattis. The meal arrived in the usual time of about 15 minutes and, although we were not expecting anything special' the gravy was rich, of a good texture and tastefully spiced. The Pathia was soured by vinegar and sweetened by sugar as required. However, the Jalfrezi was a little disappointing as there was an omission of the usual green peppers which the chef had replaced with large chunks of onion. Due to the festive period, most suppliers would not have delivered for many days, so this was understandable and acceptable - although a little pre-warning would not have gone amiss. The vegetable side dishes were all acceptable and my only criticism was that the chapattis were tandoori roti; the same dough as chapatti but the cooking in a searingly hot tandoor produces a different result making the breads somewhat semi-firm & crisp instead of being light and fluffy.

All this aside the meal was more than acceptable and may we all thank Abdul, the part owner, for the complimentary popadoms and the offer of a free drink for all at the end of the night. It is hard to comment on the atmosphere of the place as with only four of us it could hardly be a party, but as a standard Tandoori Restaurant it offers good value for money with the service and quality of food to a very good standard.

  

 

 

 

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