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Est. 1996

Issue 133

March 2008

ISSN: 1357-1168

FOOD & DRINK OF
SRI LANKA

 

 

Recipes

Egg Hoppers
Beef Pepper Curry

Formerly known as Ceylon, Sri Lanka is an island situated in the Indian Ocean just south of India.

The island is estimated to have been colonised by the Balangoda people about 34,000 years ago. The people called the Veddas (forest-dwellers) are believed to have inhabited Sri Lanka's semi-evergreen dry forest called the Wanni, for at least 16,000 years.

The Sinhalese migrated to Sri Lanka probably from North India in the 5000BC first settling along rivers. Evidence found suggests that the cultivation of wet rice was well practised. They constructed canals, water-storage tanks and reservoirs which made up an elaborate irrigation system as a backup in times of drought. By 900BC and the use of iron, advanced forms of farming and livestock breeding were practised. Cinnamon, which is native to Sri Lanka, was in use in Ancient Egypt in about 1,500 BC, suggesting that there were trading links with the island.

The island's location made it a popular stop-off point for foreign traders, especially as it produced many fine spices such as cinnamon and cloves. Examples include Arabs who introduced the the use of saffron and rose water, Portuguese who ruled the island in the 1500's and who not only introduced Chillies to the island but also culinary terms such as 'temper' which is derived from the Portuguese word, temperado - to fry and season and the Dutch who ruled the island from 1658 to1796 who introduced recipes rich in eggs and butter such as Breudher, a Dutch Christmas cake, plus savoury recipes such as Frikkadels (meatballs). There are also Malay influences as can be seen in the dish Wattalapam.

Cuisine

Sri Lankan food is little known as a speciality food abroad, being totally overshadowed by next door neighbour India and its food. While Sri Lanka food has a certain amount in common with South Indian food, Sri Lankan culinary traditions are quite distinct, being a fusion of local produce and predominately chicken, pork and fish used in recipes and spices carried to the island over the centuries by various visitors and settlers - Malay, Indian, Arab, Portuguese, Dutch and more recently English. The staple dish is rice and curry, being at its best a delicious mini banquet mixture of spices that demonstrate Sri Lanka's status as one of the premier spice islands in the world. Spices generally used in Sri Lankan cooking can include a mixture of chillies, cinnamon, curry leaves, garlic, coconut milk, pandanus leaves and sometimes a small pinch of intensely pungent sun dried tuna called 'Maldive Fish'.

Rice is still the staple of Sri Lankan cuisine and is generally served either boiled or steamed accompanied by a variety of curries. Being an island as one might expect, fish and seafood feature heavily in the everyday diet as do the wide variety of fruit and vegetables which are cultivated on the island.

A typical Sri Lankan meal would consist of a main curry of fish, meat or poultry, several other curries made with vegetables and /or pulses such as lentils plus condiments such as chutneys and sambols which are generally extremely (spicy) hot and made from various ingredients such as coconut, onions, lime juice and chillies. All the dishes are placed on the table at the same time and diners help themselves to a little of everything using a dessertspoon and fork or their fingers.

Perhaps the most distinctive nature of Sri Lankan food is the use of Maldive fish (dried fish) which is added as a flavour enhancer to vegetable dishes. Coconut and chilli also form an integral part of most Sri Lankan dishes.

Common ingredients used include coconuts and coconut milk (see the featured ingredient), chillies, onions, Maldives fish which is a little like Shrimp Paste and curry powder mixes.

There are 3 main types of Sri Lankan curry: White, Red and Black. White curries are, mild, based on coconut milk and very liquid. Red curries contain a large amount of chilli powder or ground red chillies with a few other spices. Black curries are dark in colour which is achieved by the roasting of the spices until they are a deep brown and are the most typical curries eaten in Sri Lanka.

Hoppers (appa) are another food native to Sri Lanka, served mainly for breakfast or lunch and often accompanied by "lunumiris," a fiery hot mix of red onions and spices. Hoppers are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk and a dash of palm toddy, which lends a sour flavor and fermentation ability. If toddy is not available, yeast is often used. The batter is left to rise, then cooked in a hemispherical wok-like pan. There are many types of hoppers including egg hoppers, milk hoppers, and sweeter varieties like vanduappa and paniappa.

Koola'ya is a dish made of a variety of leftover curries, mixed together with rice and often served at temples, with chapati. Its also served in a ball form, or even mixed in a blender.

 

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Mood Food is published by FSR, London, England © 2008 

Editors:

Peter J. Grove
Colleen Grove

Editorial office: PO Box 416 Surbiton, Surrey, England, KT1 9BJ

Tel: 020 8399 4831 /  020 8241 1391
ISSN 1357-1168 email: GroveInt@aol.com or editor@menumagazine.co.uk