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After
over 25 years as the Indian restaurant in Britain that set the
standards for all others, the venerable Bombay Brasserie was closed
last year whilst it was re-designed, refurbished and re-invented. It
reopened some weeks ago and has since been visited and scrutinised by
food critics and other commentators.
Last night (March 24) it was our
turn to visit the new style Bombay Brasserie in Kensington, a
restaurant that has a special place in our hearts, being the location
for the best meal we have ever had in a restaurant when Chef Udit
Sarkhel was the guiding light. We weren't sure what to expect as the
old BB was like a much-loved, favourite pair of slippers that may
have become uncomfortable but you refuse to throw away. Comments from
critics in publications such as Hardens and Metro had little kind to
say about the new incarnation, seeming to focus more on décor
and price than the food so we wondered if, perhaps after all, the
star that was the BB had slipped from the firmament.
On arrival we saw a gaggle of
photographers blocking the entrance and thought BB boss Arun Harnal
must really have missed us to lay on such a reception. As we entered
there was the man himself, welcoming us in his usual gracious fashion
and beaming as we took in the new much more modern, but still stylish
bar area. Scarcely had lips dipped into a magnificent whisky sour
than in breezed Rev. Jesse Jackson, (visiting to speak to a Commons
Committee), Keith Vaz MP and Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty - so
perhaps the photographers were not for us after all!
As the excitement died down we
were taken through the doors into the main dining area to see the
results of the new design. As did the Metro critic, we gasped, but in
delight. Stylish, spacious with an amazing warm lighted rose window
feature, it captured the elegance of the old BB but brought right up
to date. Taken from there into what used to be the Conservatory we
were even more taken aback. An exciting Interactive Kitchen area that
diners can sit around and watch chefs at work dominates the centre of
the room, with tables widely spaced around and a special party dining
area at one end. The whole atmosphere is one of opulence and comfort
with some of the most comfortable chairs I have ever sat in and
tables with sofas against the walls if I wanted even more comfort.
The only items from the old restaurant we could notice were a few of
the plants much to Keith Vaz's delight and the amazing murals which
still make one hide one's wallet or handbag in case the monkeys get them.
As we munched crudités I
perused the wine list, noting that it had our favourite Viognier
(£27.50). Prices range from £14 to the hundreds depending
on how deep your pockets are and there seemed to be no
sommelier-induced pressure to break the bank. The menu offered by
Executive Chef Prahlad Hegde is much smaller than the old menu but
much more exciting. After enjoying a small amuse bouche of mixed
fruit, we grinned with delight as our starters were laid before us. I
had the scallops with a tangy tomato chutney and curry leaf presented
on a plate that seemed to be specially designed for the purpose. My
colleague tried the Galouti Kebabs which proved to be mouth-watering
with their soft consistency, perfectly offset by the puri and crisp
salad also presented on the special plate.
Next came a bit of theatre as a
tamarind, jaggery and rock salt sorbet was presented in a special
bowl with dry ice producing a wonderful steaming effect. Neither of
us was too certain about the rock salt element but it certainly
challenged the taste buds.
And so to the main course. I went
for the Paperwali Macchi described as a BB signature dish. It arrived
in a copy of The Bombay Brasserie Times and then plated en papillote.
As I unwrapped the offering like a birthday gift I was treated to two
pieces of wonderfully spiced and cooked monkfish that went perfectly
with the gold, smoky, garlic spinach and the okra with onion, peppers
and amchur. My colleague had the Dum Ki Nalli (Lamb Shank) presented
with a creamy potato cake. Both dishes were first class and showed
that taste is of paramount importance to the chef (and by the way, do
not eat the paper around the monkfish - then again you wouldn't would you!).
Neither of us could manage a
dessert but were persuaded to try the Granny Smith Apple Kheer which
amazingly tasted as if mixed with the expected rice but contained
none at all.
The new BB is a delight even down
to the delightful surprise of how they present the hand towels at the
end of the meal (I will leave you to find that out for yourself). The
prices are not hefty, in fact they seem to be lower than the old
Bombay Brasserie and certainly well in line with other top London
restaurants. The service and atmosphere are as wonderful as ever and
now they are offering an adventure in taste which makes the meal
memorable. A great evening, a packed restaurant and great food. Mr
Harnal and his team are back at the top of their game.
Check out the Bombay Brasseries'
new look at http://www.bombaybrasserielondon.com/
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