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Italian
cuisine is extremely varied: the country of Italy was only unified in
1861, and its cuisines reflect the cultural variety of its regions
and its diverse history (with culinary influences from Greek, Roman,
Norman and Arab civilizations). Italian cuisine is regarded as a
prime example of the Mediterranean diet, and is imitated all over the world.
To a certain
extent there is really no such thing as Italian cuisine in the way
that one usually understands national cuisines. Each area has its own
proud specialties, primarily at Regional level, but also even at
Provincial level. Italian cuisine is not only highly regionalised, it
is very seasonal. The high priority placed on the use of fresh,
seasonal produce distinguishes the cuisine of Italy from the
imitations available in most other countries.
Il cibo
é l'essenza della vita.... Food is the essence of life.
For the Italians, food is a passion and many maintain that they live
to eat, they don't eat to live.
Italy has a
culinary reputation which dates back over two thousand years,
declining after the fall of the Roman Empire. Food and its
preparation was a very important part of the culture of the Roman
empire and the only surviving cookery book from the Classical period
is Roman; a text known as Apicius, after the renowned Roman gourmet
who lived in the first century BC. Although, it is thought that the
work itself is a compilation, constructed over many years by several
contributors, as it was copied and re-copied.
The first
printed cookery book also came from Italy. Written by Bartolomeo
Platina, the Vatican Librarian, in 1475, his work De Honesta
Voluptate, drew largely from the manuscripts of an earlier 15th
century recipe writer, Maestro Martino of Como.
After the
collapse of the Roman empire, Italy became fragmented and the
separate regions grew up as individual city states, each with their
own identity, resources and traditions. Just over a century ago,
under the auspices of Garibaldi, it was drawn together to form a
unified country which, like its cuisine style, is relaxed, varied,
colourful and unpretentious.
With any
country, ingredients traditionally vary according to the availabity
locally of different foods. Although modern storage, freezing methods
and easier shipping and transportation are tending to change this
worldwide, Italian food still seems able to reflect seasonal and
regional variations. For example, the north contributes Tuscan beef,
the excellent pork and dairy products of Parma, the recently
fashionable polenta and, of course, the famous black truffles from
the Marches. The South complements these with citrus fruits, and
creamy cheeses such as Ricotta, Mozzarella and Provolone. However,
the true mark of the southern style is in the use of the ubiquitous
tomato, which the southerners, and Naples in particular took to its
heart almost upon its arrival from the 'New World' and, by marrying
their fluffy flatbreads and creamy Mozzarella with the Pomo D'Oro, or
golden apple, (the first tomatoes were yellow), created the famous
open pie which has now been emulated worldwide - Pizza.
Naturally
enough, the coastal areas have a wide variety of fish and seafood to
draw upon: Mussels, baby clams, squid, octopus, prawns, sardines,
anchovies and red mullet number among the more familiar to the
British, along with many more, including the more exotic sea-dates,
sea-truffles and cuttlefish.
The islands of
Sardinia and Sicily maintain the more traditional and simple cuisine
styles; spit-roasting suckling pig pretty much as their ancestors
would have at the height of the Roman Empire, when Sicilian cooks
enjoyed a certain amount of fame; producing soups and stews which
draw upon the rich harvets from the Mediterranean - sardines (which
share their name with the island of Sardinia), red mullet, swordfish,
lobster and anchovies.
The Arab
influence on the food of the south is very strong and the two islands
are no exception to this, especially in the areas of sweets and
spices. Cassata, the famous Sicilian ice cream cake, takes its name
from the Arabic qas'at, the name for a large, round bowl.
Pasta,
synonymous with the term 'Italian food' for some, is found everywhere
in all shapes, sizes and colours, served with a variety of sauces
which are limited only by the bounds of the imagination. The popular
myth that pasta was brought back to Europe by the traveller and
writer, Marco Polo seems to have well shattered by modern food
historians, who indicate as proof that mention is made to paste
alimentari, (to give it its original, longer, name), well before his
return to Venice in 1298, including recipes in the previously
mentioned cookbook by Bartolomeo Platina of 1475. In fact, some
evidence has been found to support the theory that the Etruscans were
familiar with pasta. A 4th century relief at Caere shows equipment
similar to that still in use today in producing hand-made pasta.
One thing is
sure, however, that no matter which region an Italian calls home, the
same love of food prevails and most genuine Italian restaurants in
this country reflect this. From the most humble café to the
grander celebrity establishment, all offering the very best in food
and delighting in the diners' appreciation and enjoyment of their efforts.
Piedmont
Bordering on
France and Switzerland in the extreme north, Piemontese cuisine
relies heavily on butter and wine and, although there are some
country dishes, there is a long tradition of Turin-based
sophisticated cuisine.
Garlic is
popular in this region, as are fresh ingredients.
Grissini
breadsticks were first created in Turin.
Rice is
important in the region and truffles grow in the clay soil and area
used as a flavouring in many dishes.
Cheeses of the
area include tome, rabiola and fontina.
Wines: Barolo
and Barbaresco.
Lombardy
This area has
been occupied throughout history by Romans, Huns, Goths, Spaniards
and Hungarians, giving rise to a unique cusine style.
Milanese
cuisine is renowned for its great use of butter and is said to
produce the best Minestrone in Italy.
The Milanese
Risotto is a famous dish, as is Ossobucco Milanese and polenta is
very popular in the region.
Liguria
Extends from
the French coast in the east to Genoa.
Herbs, rather
than spices, are important and Genoese pesto, made from garlic and
basil, reflects the predominance of that herb.
Sage, rosemary
and marjoram grow in abundance in the region and tripe is popular.
Emilio-Romagna
Stretches
across the top of the 'boot' from the Ligurian Sea to the Adriatic.
Bologna is the
main city and the sausages of the region are famed throughout the world.
It is a very
fertile area and has excellent wheat and fruit products, as well as
beef and veal.
The pasta is
said to be some of the best in Italy, especially the tagliatelle,
supposedly inspired by the golden tresses of Lucretzia Borgia.
Veneto
The cuisine of
Venice is traditionall herb and spice-based ever since the days when
Eurpean trade in spices was controlled from the city.
Polenta
originated in Venice, using the maize on its journey from the 'New
World' and rice is also popular, served with peas, meat or shellfish.
Trout from
Lake Garda are a popular delicacy.
Tuscany
The region
which has Pisa and Florence within its boundaries, it is an area of
romance, immortalized by many poets and artists.
Cooking in
this region is regarded as an art form and is based on the raw
ingredients rather than relying on sauces, herbs and spices.
The beef, pork
and poultry is regarded as being of the highest quality.
Tuscan olive
oil is liberally used in the cooking and the delicious snack,
Bruschetta is a regional speciality, as are the bean-based dishes,
Fagioli Fiasco and Minestra di Faglioli.
Small birds,
such as quail and snipe are also popular, and the region is renowned
for its delicious desserts and cakes such as Centi and Panettone.
Wine: Chianti
Umbria
A small
region, stretching across the mountains and valleys of middle of Italy.
Regional
specialities include spit-roasted doves and roast suckling pig.
Favourite
ingredients include truffles, ham, sausages, fresh vegetables and
freshwater fish such as eel and trout.
Wine: Orivieto
Marches
A mountainous
coastal region where great use is made of seafood and fish in their
many varieties of Brodetto, served traditional with rice on toasted bread.
Wine:
Verdicchio, which goes well with fish.
Lazio
Dominated by
Rome, this region has a strong tradition of peasant dishes using
offal. Oxtails, sweetbreads, brains and tripe are popular amongst the
locals and Saltimbocca, ('Jump in the mouth'), slices of veal and ham
flavoured with fresh sage sprigs, is the most famous dish from this region.
Produce from
the area is distinctive because of the quality of the sun-drenched,
volcanic soil.
Abruzzo
& Molise
Lying to the
south of the Marches, producing wheat, grapes, potatoes and olives.
Fish are plentiful in the coastal areas and octopus in oil and tomato
is a popular dish.
Campania
The influence
of the Greek settlers is still apparent and dishes tend to be simple,
quick and ingenious.
The pizza
originated in Naples, as did Spaghetti con le Vongole. Mozzarella is
a popular cheese in the region. Sweet peppers are widely used and
food can be quite spicy.
Ice cream is a
famous regional product.
Basillicata,
Puglia & Calabria
These southern
areas have an abundance of citrus fruits, vegetables and fish.
Cozze alla
marinara and stuffed aubergines are popular dishes.
Sicilia
& Sardegna
The two
largest of the Italian islands and the cuisines reflect the
influences of the many invaders who have occupied them throughout
their history.
Naturally,
fish dishes are popular, as is ice cream - Casata was invented on
Sicily, taking its name from the Arabic, qas'at, a word used to
describe a large, round bowl.
Wine: Marsala, Mosacato
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