|
Aiming
to bring a new Scandinavian food experience to London, Madsen opened
on 23 October at 20 Old Brompton Road, South Kensington, SW7.
Conceived by Charlotte Kruse Madsen, a talented caterer who has been
running her own catering company here in London, Madsen Food for two
years, the restaurant is the fulfilment of a precise and specific
aspiration: to awake our tastebuds to the largely unknown nuances of
Nordic cuisine and change people's perception of Scandinavian food as
we know it. Refreshingly, Madsen has a sense of purpose and finds
innovation where others have seen limitations, showing how
traditional ingredients such as herrings, pollack and bacon can be
given a deliciously contemporary twist.
With this
revival in mind, Charlotte Kruse Madsen sets out to serve clean and
modern, refined Nordic cuisine with respect to its heritage, styled
after the 11 Michelin-star restaurants found in her native Denmark.
Inspired by
the Scandinavian tradition of using wholesome, raw and unprocessed
ingredients to produce the finished dish, the emphasis at Madsen is
on freshness, simplicity, purity and taste. Food is simple and
straightforward, yet full of character. Blending the traditional with
the modern, dishes are prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients,
brought to the table without fuss and unnecessary garnish.
LUNCHTIME
SMØRREBRØD AND SNITTER
The famous
Danish open sandwich - the name literally means 'butter and bread'' -
is the lunchtime centrepiece. With a base of rye or sourdough bread
and a choice of toppings, the clever combination of flavours and the
artful arrangement of the ingredients make Smørrebrød a
lunchtime favourite for the ease of choice, the healthier factor and
the keen price. Just two pieces from the cold or one piece from the
warm choices are plenty for an average lunch, from £5.95 a
piece. Beyond the traditional Herring platter from £8.00 (three
ways, with freshly made curry salad) washed down with dill akvavit,
there is Roast pork and crackling topped with home pickled red
cabbage and Brisket of beef with creamed horseradish and mustard
cress. Stierneskud, a meal in itself, combines breaded plaice and
steamed plaice, Greenland prawns, asparagus and smoked salmon for
just £11.95. For smaller appetites, try Snitter - bite size
sm?rrebr?d served as finger food, tapas-style, as well as salads and
fresh soups. A traditional Smörgåsbord - a cold table - is
a veritable food feast served on Sundays.
René
Madsen (no relation) 25, is the young and dynamic Danish head chef
who shares a passionate commitment to new Nordic cooking, using
fresh, locally sourced produce. His menu shows culinary sensitivity
to Nordic cuisine, producing dishes of character and distinction.
Originality
shows on the seasonal menu, which currently offers Scallops on a bed
of pumpkin and a clear lemon sauce, served with wafer thin toasted
rye bread, a classic Beef tartare with all the trimmings, Salmon
fillet with terrine of leek and white butter sauce and a Slow-roasted
pork loin with glazed beetroots and Jerusalem artichokes to name some
of the choices. On the dessert menu, the Blackberry Trio is a truly
delightful combination of fresh blackberries, blackberry ice cream,
blackberry syrup and chocolate jelly. A three course meal with wine
is around £35.
Part of the
dining experience, the setting highlights the contemporary
Scandinavian brasserie feel, with pale wooden floors combining with
the white décor, an exposed brick wall, and a curved bar. A
red bench runs the length of one wall. The clean fresh lines carry
through to the wood grained tables, each one made to order, whilst
lighting is provided by a classic of modern Danish interior design -
the legendary PH5 lamps by Poul Henningsen. The exterior terrace is
finished in slate, set off by plain box plants.
Ethics area
impressive, with food mostly sourced locally and wines only from
Europe to reduce carbon emission from long distance transport. Water
is filtered, cutting down on bottle waste and delivery, coffee comes
from Union Coffee Roasters, one the most ethical organisations
seeking to improve the livelihood of people growing coffee. No
tablecloths are used, reducing water, energy consumption and
detergents, and there are no patio heaters, but nice warm
Scandinavian blankets are provided for chilly nights. Menus are
printed on recycled paper, catering deliveries are made using an LPG
fuelled van and the furniture is made from wood soured from
sustainable forests.
Madsen, 20
Old Brompton Road, London SW7 3DL Tel: 020 7225 2772. Open Monday
Thursday midday to 11pm, Friday and Saturday midday to midnight,
Sunday midday to 5pm. The main restaurant accommodates 68 people. The
private room from 16 to 50 people, depending on the type of event.
There are also 16 patio seats in warm weather. Nearest tube: South
Kensington. Also check www.madsenrestaurant.com
top |
