|
This year
National Curry Week 21-27 October 2007 celebrates the introduction of
the tandoor into restaurants and the consequent creation of Butter
Chicken, the forerunner to Chicken Tikka Masala 60 years ago.
Lala Kundan
Lal Gujral created Moti Mahal restaurant near The Red Fort that grew
to a 400 seat restaurant from small beginnings and bcome a legend in
its own lifetime. Opened in 1947 he was also said to have invented
Butter Chicken which became Chicken Tikka Masala when it was taken to
greater heights in Britain. He first set up in Peshawar in 1920 and
trailed to Delhi in 1947 following the partition.
|
 |
Kundan Lal
Gujral, a larger-than-life figure whom people still remember for his
immaculate Pathani suits, handlebar moustache, love for good whisky
and the favours he dispensed because of his proximity to Indira
Gandhi, would personally serve his guests. His wife would begin each
day grinding the masalas, a closely guarded secret, that went into
the signature dishes.
Moti Mahal was
the first to bake Chicken in a big clay oven - a sight common across
villages for baking bread. It is said a gratifying meal is the ideal
mixture of all three senses - sight, aroma and taste. He worked with
a local man to produce the first restaurant version of the village
tandoor and invented a tandoori spice mix for tandoori chicken
-ground coriander seeds, black pepper and mild red pepper. |
Called Murg
Makhani in Hindi, Butter Chicken originated in the Moti Mahal
restaurant in Old Delhi. Famed for its Tandoori Chicken, the cooks
there used to recycle the leftover chicken juices in the marinade
trays by adding butter and tomato. This sauce was then tossed around
with the tandoor-cooked chicken pieces and presto - Butter Chicken
was ready! The leftover dish appealed to Delhites and was quickly
lapped up by the rest of the world.
So impressed
was India's first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru by Kundal Lal's
dishes that Moti Mahal became a permanent fixture in all his state
banquets. In fact, when the Shah of Iran came on a state visit to
India, the Indian Education Minister Maulana Azad told him that
coming to Delhi without eating at Moti Mahal was like going to Agra
and not seeing the Taj Mahal. So impressed was Nikita Krushchev with
Moti Mahal food that he invited Kundan Lal to have a shop at an
international trade fair in Moscow and after Nehru, his daughter and
then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi continued the relationship with
Moti Mahal. So fascinated was she by the food that at the wedding of
her younger son Sanjay Gandhi, Moti Mahal specialties dominated the dinner.
Grandson
Monish Gujral entered the business in 1983 and has since built the
business up to have 33 outlets promoting their specialist
"tandoori trail" cuisine including a branch in London. His
grandfather's signature dishes remain, some additions were made in
the 1970s, some in the 1990s, but people blindly come and order the
Butter Chicken, Maa Ki Dal and Roti. "It is difficult to tell
them to try anything different," he said. Last year Upper crust
magazine voted Monish Gujral`s Motimahal Delux Tandoori Trail
Restaurant in Mumbai Nariaman point in the top ten restautrants of Mumbai.
Dynamic as he
is, Monish has written a book about his grandfather and has also
opened an office in New York -USA for trading restaurant wares and
for the expansion of his franchises in the west.
During
National Curry Week 2007 curry-lovers in UK are asked to celebrate
the introduction of the tandoor and "Britain's favourite
dish" in a restaurant or at home by remembering the needs of
others and sending £1 per diner to Oxfam.
More
details on how you can donate can be found at www.nationalcurryweek.co.uk

|