|
It
was once said to me that Cyrus Todiwala is to Indian cuisine in
Britain what Gordon Ramsay is to French. If that means that they are
both naturally gifted chefs at the top of their particular sector and
have a problem suffering fools gladly, then perhaps the comparison is reasonable.
Cyrus
was born and brought up in Bombay, now Mumbai and graduated from
Bombay's Catering College to train as a chef with the famous Taj
Group in India. As with all Taj chefs, his grounding was across the
spectrum but his particular forte was as a patissiere. His training
continued from 1976 to 1980 when he went to the Geneva
Intercontinental as a sous chef for a short time before becoming chef
de partie at Chambers Club until 1982. This was followed by two years
as chef de cuisine at Taj Holiday Village and from 1984 to 1989 he
was Executive Chef at Fort Aguada Beach Resort, The Aguada Hermitage
and The Taj Holiday Village, catering for Heads of State and even
royalty. It was during this time he was appointed Wild Life Warden
for Goa by the Chief Minister and Lieutenant Governor and became a
founder member for conservation of endangered species.
In
1989 he went into his first restaurant venture as a working partner
in The Place whilst designing and equipping kitchens and learning
about Thai and Singapore cuisine.
In
1991 India's loss became London's gain when Cyrus and wife Pervin,
also trained in the culinary skills, moved to London. Cyrus became
Executive Chef at Namaste Restaurant in Alie Street E1 and it was not
long before the plaudits were coming in. Pat Chapman of The Curry
Club had seen Cyrus' work in Goa and had no hesitation in placing him
in top spot in UK even before Cyrus had raised a pan in anger. Others
were quick to follow as Cyrus struggled to produce excellence in less
than ideal conditions. Fay Maschler of the London Evening Standard
said his 'specials set her pulse racing' in 1992 and by 1993 his
abilities were recognised by all from Hardens to the Good Curry Guide
and The Real Curry Restaurant Guide to Time Out.
In
1993 he took over as Chef/Director of Namaste with the help of wife
Pervin and continued to offer dishes not seen in Indian restaurants
elsewhere in Britain. It was during this period he met entrepreneur
Michael Gottlieb of Smollenskys fame and the two hit it off
immediately. Michael could see the potential a top Indian restaurant
represented and Cyrus and Pervin were completely committed to the
cause. In 1995 Cafe Spice Namaste opened in nearby Prescot Street in
an old listed building offering acres of room.
Customers
relax in the comfortable dining area decorated in warm Rajasthani
colours but below stairs there is a little world of its own. During
the last seven years Cyrus and Pervin have opened a branch in
Lavender Hill, started a thriving sandwich business, created their
own pickles and chutnies and hampers and started The Asian and
Oriental Scool of Catering. This has been one of Cyrus' great
achievements with 700 students already having gone through the school
and 120 full time jobs found. Surprisingly 38% of students come from
the black community but unsurprisingly its reputuation continues to
grow, recently gaining the endorsement of the doyenne of food
critics, Fay Maschler.
Cyrus
is the complete chef. His day starts early. By 11.00 am as we join
him he is going through his correspondence facing Pervin who is doing
the same thing. He talks animatedly about his aims and dreams and
pauses to answer a shrilling phone. Someone needs 10 tonnes of a herb
they cannot source. Hang on says Cyrus, calls Bombay and the order is
sealed within seconds with hardly a break in what we were discussing
prior to the call. After a hectic day at Cafe Spice he was off to the
Parsee a successful venture in Highgate in which Cyrus and Pervin
have a hand and whose menu and basic food is prepared by Cyrus' team.
His
success is based on his natural ability and his background. He and
Pervin are Parsee and live in a small Parsee community with their
young sons in Hackney, which supplies them with the spiritual
strength they need. Cyrus is like a test pilot. For nearly ten years
I have watched him bubble over with excitement at the creation of a
new dish which may or may not work, or the sourcing of a new product
such as the wonderful organic beef from Devon he uses in his Beef
Ulathu, a Syrian/Christian dish, at present. He will try anything
from bison to crocodile - "that didn't really work," he
says, grinning - and dishes on his current menu include such items as
Silago, little fish from Vietnam, deep fried and served with a honey
and lemon dressing and lemongrass.
Much
of Cyrus' work goes on behind the scenes. Last year he was busy
formulating dishes for Marks and Spencer and at the other extreme
dressed up as a chicken to protest on the streets as part of the
Freedom Campaign.
He
has appeared on numerous radio and television programmes and since
1999 has also been a member of the National Advisory Council for
Education and Training Targets as well as part of Lloyd Grossman's
team for developing NHS menus. In August 2000 he received an MBE in
recognition of his services to the catering industry, seemingly the
pinnacle of his career.
Far
from it. The excitement still reigns supreme and with the support of
Angelo in the kitchen and Pervin running front of house, there is
more to come from this team. As we ate and digested a wealth of
information as well as wonderful food and a very palatable Santa
Julia Argentinian Chenin Blanc our attention was drawn to Cafe
Spice's favourite customer Freddie. A stately city gentleman, he has
his own table from which he fiercely promotes and defends Cafe Spice
and the Todiwalas. He only telephones when he is not coming in to
dine and has done so for eleven years, since the days of the old
Namaste. If you don't want to take our word for the qualities of
Cyrus and Pervin just visit Cafe Spice Namaste one lunchtime and ask
Freddie. He will be more than happy to put you straight.
. |
