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Est. 1996

Issue 151

September 2009

Focus On

Cajun Food & Drink

 

 

Immigrants, most of French peasant ancestry, settled the "Acadian" region of the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia from 1604 to 1654. By 1713 the total population of Acadians in the Bay of Fundy area was 2,000; by 1755, the population had grown to 15,000. These settlers subsisted on cereal crops such as wheat, barley and oats, and garden vegetables such as field peas, cabbage, and turnips. This diet was supplemented by domestic livestock, wild game, and fishing.

 Because of increased tensions between the French settlers and the British, the Acadians were ultimately forced out of Nova Scotia. This was a long and gruelling journey for those that survived it; many of the Acadians were sent first to Maryland, then to France, and finally to Louisiana where they attempted to reunite with their family members. The name "Acadian" was transformed to "Cajun" by the English-speaking inhabitants of Louisiana.

Cajun cuisine originates from these French-speaking Acadian or "Cajun" immigrants.. It is what could be called a rustic cuisine and an authentic Cajun meal is usually a three-pot affair, with one pot dedicated to the main dish, one dedicated to steamed rice, skillet cornbread, or some other grain dish, and the third containing whatever vegetable is plentiful or available.

Fish and shellfish are very important in Cajun Cuisine as are chicken and beef. Pork is the base for many Cajun favourites such as Andouille - a spicy dry smoked sausage, characterized by a coarse-ground texture ; Boudin - a fresh sausage made with green onions, pork, and rice. Pig's blood is sometimes added to produce "boudin rouge" ; Chaurice, similar to the Spanish chorizo ; Chaudin - a pig's stomach, stuffed with spiced pork & smoked. Also known as ponce ; Gratons - hog cracklings or pork rinds; fried, seasoned pork fat & skin, sometimes with small bits of meat attached. Similar to the Spanish chicharrones and Pork sausage (fresh) - not smoked or cured, but highly seasoned. Mostly used in gumbos. The sausage itself does not include rice, separating it from boudin as well as Tasso - a highly seasoned, smoked pork shoulder

Other popular dish use alligator, frog legs, nutria, rabbit and turtle.

Boudin
Boudin is a type of sausage made from pork, pork liver, rice, garlic and green onion, and other spices. It is widely available by the link or pound from butcher shops. Boudin is usually made daily as it does not keep well for very long, even frozen. Boudin is typically stuffed in a natural casing and has a softer consistency than other, better-known sausage varieties. It is usually served with side dishes such as rice dressing, maque choux, or bread.

Gumbo
High on the list of favourites of Cajun cooking are the soups called gumbos. Gumbo exemplifies the influence of African and Native American food cultures on Cajun cuisine.

A filé gumbo is thickened with sassafras leaves after the gumbo has finished cooking, a practice borrowed from the Choctaw Indians. The backbone of a gumbo is a dark roux, which is made of flour, toasted until well browned, and fat or oil, not butter as with the French. The classic gumbo is made with chicken and the Cajun sausage called andouille, but the ingredients all depend on what is available at the moment.

Jambalaya
Another classic Cajun dish is jambalaya. The only certain thing that can be said about a jambalaya is that it contains rice and almost anything else. Usually, however, one will find green peppers, onions, celery and hot chile peppers. Anything else is optional.

Crawfish boil
The crawfish boil is a celebratory event where Cajuns boil crawfish, potatoes, onions and corn over large propane cookers. Lemons and small muslin bags containing a mixture of bay leaves, mustard seeds, cayenne pepper and other spices, commonly known as "crab boil" or "crawfish boil" are added to the water for seasoning. The results are then dumped onto large, newspaper-draped tables and in some areas covered in spice blends, such as Zatarain's, Louisiana Fish Fry or Tony Chachere's.

Boucherie
The traditional pig-slaughtering party, or Boucherie, where Cajuns would gather to socialize, play music, dance, and preserve meat does still occur in some rural communities.

 

Beef Gumbo

3 tbsp. butter or margarine
1 lb. beef chuck, diced
3 strips bacon
1 green pepper, diced
1/8 tsp. thyme
1 tbsp. flour
2 cup hot water with 2 tbsp. catsup
1 can okra and tomatoes
1 tbsp. file powder
8 stuffed olives, chopped
1 tsp. chopped parsley
1/2 tbsp. steak sauce

Use 3 quart boiler to braise beef, bacon, pepper in hot butter or margarine until light golden brown. Add flour, mix well until smooth. Add hot water and catsup, okra and tomatoes, simmer slowly, stirring often for 20 minutes remove from fire, add file powder, parsley, olives, salt and steak sauce. Serve with croutons.

Croutons:

Fry in 2 tablespoons of hot butter or margarine, small squares of bread until brown.

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Mood Food is published by FSR, London, England © 2009 

Editors:

Peter J. Grove

Editorial office: PO Box 416 Surbiton, Surrey, England, KT1 9BJ

Tel: 020 8399 4831

ISSN 1357-1168 email: GroveInt@aol.com