|
Mango
Mangifera indica.
The mango has a long and
distinguished history. A native of India, it has been cultivated for
around 4,000 years and, according to Hindu mythology, it once
enclosed the daughter of the sun and Buddha
was said to have reposed in a mango grove. Akbar
the Great (1556-1605), planted an orchard of 100,000 mangoes
near Darbhanga in northern India, assuring and confirming the value
of this already important fruit to the country's culture and theology.
Travellers to the subcontinent, however, displayed
mixed reactions to this unique and exotic fruit. Dr
John Fryer, who visited India with the East India Company
during the 1670's claimed, "When ripe, the Apples of the
Hesperides are but Fables to them, for taste, the Nectarine, Peach
and Apricot fall short." But, speaking very plainly for the
other side, Fanny Parkes remarks in her
Wanderings of a Pilgrim in Search of the Picturesque (1832), I
was disgusted with them, all those to be had at the time being
stringy, with a strong taste of turpentine.
The Sanskrit name for the mango
was amra from which the Chinese derived their an-mo-lo.
Its English name is from manga, used by the Portuguese who
occupied Goa, which, in turn was a corruption of the original Tamil, mankay.
A member of the ever green Anarcardiaceae family,
which includes the cashew, pistachio, American poison Ivy and the
pepper tree, there are currently 41 varieties of mango grown
world-wide. The fruit is oval or kidney-shaped, with a smooth skin,
which varies in colour from green through yellow to orange and red,
sometimes displaying a pretty crimson blush, although this is no
indication as to the ripeness of the fruit. The flesh is yellow or
orange and contains a large, flat stone, and the fruit can vary in
weight between 255g (1/21b) to lkg (21b).
It is notoriously difficult to eat, as the skin is
impossible to remove if taken in the wrong direction. The almost
universal answer to this problem seems to be to slice the fruit in
half lengthways, sliding past the stone, scoring the flesh at
diagonals, then turning each half inside out to form a
hedgehog of bite-sized cubes. Although true aficionados
just soften the mango between their hands,
taking care not to split the skin, then make a small hole in the top
through which they suck out all the juice.
Another drawback to clean mango
consumption is that the fruit is undoubtedly at its best when
dribbly-juicy, making it the ideal bath-time snack. This
is also one of the reasons we cant get the best in this
country, as it only ripens to such perfection on the tree. Luckily,
March marks the beginning of the season for the best Indian mangoes,
and the king of these, the Alphonso, and
although you do have to search to find them in the shops here, you
can get them - at a price!
India produces an amazing 10 million tonnes of mangoes
every year, although, because of the massive domestic demand for the
fruit, it only exports about a quarter of these.
Chinese medicine, which regards the diet as a way of
balancing health, uses mango to relieve
indigestion, ease the symptoms of asthma and to soothe bleeding gums.
They advise against eating the fruit after a heavy meal, though, as
it tends to swell the stomach and also warn against mixing mango
with onion and garlic, as it may cause skin itching.
For fibre and vitamins, the mango
is hard to beat. Packed with beta-carotene, the vegetable form of
vitamin A - over 1½ times the RDA, a full day's supply of
vitamin C for a non-smoking adult, a good amount of potassium and an
average-sized fruit supplies 7g of dietary fibre. Beta-carotene is a
powerful antioxidant, which may protect against certain types of
cancer and atherosclerosis, which can lead to heart attack and
stroke, as does vitamin C, which also helps the body to stave off infection.
The dietary fibre is known to maintain bowel
regularity, protecting against colon and rectal cancers. However,
there is always a viper in paradise: an average mango
contains 14% sugar, which, when consumed regularly, is not only bad
news for the diet, but for that shiny white smile, too. Amchur, the
vitamin C-rich powdered form, is sun-dried mango, ground for use in
cooking to add sourness.
Ayurveda recommends this
easily-digested food-stuff for the elderly, the weak and infirm and
for excess of Vata (wind). It is described as soothing colitis and
improving the complexion. Another recommended remedy is to grind the
roasted stone to make a cure for diarrhoea. Also, ladies beware!
In India, it is said that you can tell that a woman is
expecting a baby when she starts craving raw mango! |