Nutmeg & Mace Myristica fragrans, - Jaiphal, Javriti The generic name for the plant that bears the two spices is derived from the Greek for fragrant, myristicós, from the same root as the word for Myrrh, with whose scent is has often been compared. The common name, nutmeg probably refers to the fact that it is found within a fruit and is similar in size and appearance to a nut. Mace, its partner, is actually the aril which surrounds the nutmeg; a clinging, lacy, dark red overcoat, which fades to a lighter orange when dried. The pale yellow fruit which bears both used to be discarded on harvest, but now has started to be used in jams, jellies and syrups, especially in Grenada, where they produce a round a third of the world’s crop of nutmeg. These twin spices enjoyed a certain mysticism for several centuries, their origin being unknown even to the Arab traders who brought them to the West. As with most plant products, medicinal uses were discovered quite quickly, the first being recorded from around the 6th century. By the 12th century, nutmegs had found their way onto the spice trains into Europe and were used in the mixture of spices and herbs which were strewn in the streets at the coronation of Emperor Henry VI of Germany in 1191. As spices, and especially nutmeg, were extremely expensive, this would have served the joint purposes of impressing upon the masses an ostentatious show of wealth whilst protecting the royal personage against diseases. In 17th century Venice, plague doctors wore sinister beak-shaped masks stuffed with similar combinations to protect them as they moved around the city. By the beginning of the 14th century, the Arabs had tracked down the source; the Indonesian Moluccan Islands. However, this did not serve to bring down the cost appreciably as English documents from the period rate 1lb nutmegs as being equivalent to 3 sheep, and the spice was not widely available until the Portuguese open the first direct sea route at the start of the 16th century. So began the monopoly of nutmegs, along with cloves, by first the Portuguese, then the Dutch. The Dutch were much more serious about their stranglehold. Intent on keeping the only source to themselves, all spices leaving the islands were sterilised to ensure that they could not be propagated elsewhere. This was not enough, however, and to ensure that prices were kept up to a satisfactory level, all the inhabitants of one island were massacred and three quarters of all clove and nutmeg trees were destroyed in order to limit production. Finally, because mace was a more highly prized spice than nutmeg and available in a much smaller quantity, the misguided Dutch inadvertently added yet another factor in keeping its price high by ordering a massive reduction in the number of nutmeg trees, destroying them in order to make way for a plantation of mace trees! When the British wrested the Spice Islands from the Dutch in 1796, all such silliness stopped and cultivation spread to Penang, Singapore and, finally the West Indies, bringing down prices and increasing availability, enabling nutmeg to be used in almost every sweet dish of the period, whilst mace became a firm favourite in potted meats, fish dishes and farces (stuffings). All expensive spices found their way into ‘magic’ potions and nutmeg is no exception. It was used in incense preparations to enliven, sharpen the mind and to increase psychic abilities. Medicine, too, has valued the spice since the 6th century, and it is mentioned in the vedic texts as a cure for headaches, fever, intestinal upsets and halitosis (bad breath). Until the 19th century nutmeg was thought to be effective against every known ailment and was linked with menstrual flow control and bringing about spontaneous abortions. It is known to be a good soporific and has been used in night-caps, however, its main active ingredient, the phenol myristcin, is also an hallucinogen, also found in minute quantities in black pepper, carrot, parsley and celery seeds, which can cause degeneration of the liver, so it is most definitely not to be overdone! The amount found in quantities of nutmeg, however, is significant enough to have led to its use at one time as a recreational drug among the poor and prison inmates. Malcom X was reputed to have used it whilst in Boston Jail and Charlie Parker, the jazz saxophonist is said to have eaten it. In fact, most people in this country benefit from the powers of nutmeg oil every winter as, apparently, it is one of the main ingredients in Vick Vaporub. Mace, too has its use, albeit a more cosmetic one, and is used in the production of aftershaves, perfumes and shampoo. Its terms of culinary importance, nutmeg and mace are probably high on the list, being used in possibly the widest spread of preparations: egg and cheese dishes; spinach and green vegetables, having a magical ability to dispel that ‘rotting veg’ smell; cakes and puddings; sausages and even haggis. Mace, bearing the stronger flavour of the two is also exceptionally good in fish dishes, potatoes and appear in many chutney recipes. Nutritionally, 1 teaspoon of nutmeg, ground equals roughly 2g, giving an energy output of 12 calories. It contains carbohydrates, protein and slight amounts of vitamins A, B1, B2, niacin, sodium, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, selenium, zinc and no cholesterol. The same amount of Mace, ground weighs 1.7g, 8 calories and contains carbohydrate, protein, is rich in vitamin A, B1, B2, niacin, sodium, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, selenium, zinc and, again has no cholesterol.